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Half Shafts

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CobraCommander View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote CobraCommander Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Half Shafts
    Posted: 2010-Feb-08 at 9:14am
Our team has made a custom axles for our car as well, we have a Kawasaki differential and use the Polaris outer.

We simply use a tube sleeve for our extension, I'm pretty sure it's 1" .120 wall to start but gets turned down to a little less on the lathe to save some weight. We simply weld the tube and two rosets on each end and have never broken anything. Well except for the cv's but that's another story...

Plenty of strength and simple.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote scotty82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Mar-24 at 2:11pm

We have a team doing some testing on our VAR4340 axles .

Hopefully things will go good and we can offer them as a kit with common CV joints.
 
It will be pretty much like what we do in FSAE. A series of around 4 differant axles sizes
with 2 inches of spline on either end so they can be cut , and circlip grooves machined in them according to your track widths.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote J.Cremer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Jun-10 at 8:02pm
Hey guys I'm new to the forum and to baja.

This is a little off topic but just wondering if anyone has dimensions for sportsman 300 polaris axles or any other polaris axles you might be running. Looking for length of the axle, cv's, and stubs at each end so I can figure out what kind of suspension travel I will be able to get out of the setup. 

Also does anyone know the max angle that the cv's can handle, we measured a sportsman 500 at 27 degrees at ride height .
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ErikHardy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-10 at 3:32pm
Axle Experts,
 
We plan on cuttin and extending the polaris axles, and before we have a go at one I'd like to ask a few questions. What precautions or processes were enfourced before making making the cut (we plan on cutting them at roughly 45 degrees as mentioned before)? What thickness would be recommended for the extension rods? After welding and making sure the axle is within tolerances, any heat treating? Some have mentioned they have not heat treated afterward and have been fine, doe sthis still hold true?
 
-Erik
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote adrive7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-10 at 3:41pm
We didn't heat treat ours, and some of them weren't even terribly straight. None broke after switching to the 45 degree method.
-Joe

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Post Options Post Options   Quote ErikHardy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-10 at 3:48pm
Joe,
Any Jigging?
I was thinking about setting up a jig with pillow blocks or something like that
I saw the angle iron method but I'd like to see something better if necessary
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Post Options Post Options   Quote adrive7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-10 at 3:59pm
What, too good for angle iron? :-p

We never bothered with anything more precise. We could have gotten straighter shafts if we did, but we never had issues.
-Joe

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Post Options Post Options   Quote ErikHardy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-10 at 4:14pm
Originally posted by adrive7

What, too good for angle iron? :-p

LOL Angle Iron and clamps would be give another reason for formula to poke haha
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Post Options Post Options   Quote johnpate01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-10 at 4:24pm
We use 1.5" aluminum angles for our alignment jig.  If it works well, is fast, is simple, and it's cheap, what is there to really poke fun at?  Let them spend a week making their shafts.  I'll be out driving.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote blue2kss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-10 at 9:15pm
I welded ours up in the lathe.  Nice and straight

(And for those who will claim that is a bad idea, they did it for years before I got there and I personally know several fabricators who do the same thing)


Edited by blue2kss - 2010-Aug-10 at 9:19pm
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dillon_b12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-10 at 10:31pm
Originally posted by ErikHardy

Axle Experts,
 
We plan on cuttin and extending the polaris axles, and before we have a go at one I'd like to ask a few questions. What precautions or processes were enfourced before making making the cut (we plan on cutting them at roughly 45 degrees as mentioned before)? What thickness would be recommended for the extension rods? After welding and making sure the axle is within tolerances, any heat treating? Some have mentioned they have not heat treated afterward and have been fine, doe sthis still hold true?
 
-Erik
 
 

Well, here is method that I prefer to use and the one that we have used for the last few years.

We cut the ends of the axle shafts off with a chopsaw since the hard axle material rapes bandsaw blades.  Chamfer the ends on the grinder, strip coating off with wire wheel, and wipe down with acetone a couple times.

Next, bore your extension to match each of your shortened axle stubs.    The axles that we use are very slightly different diameters on either end, so don't make the mistake of measuring one and boring all your tubes to that spec.  We make the bores tight enough that you can just barely slide the axle stubs in and out with your hand.  A healthy chamfer is put on the ends of the axle extension tubes to help during the welding process.

Then, the lathe gets fitted with the 4-jaw chuck and an extension tube is chucked up and indicated true. After that, the matched axle stub is slid in the ext. tube.  The lathe is shut off and put in neutral.  The welder ground cable is attached to the ext. tube.  

You will need one person to weld and a helper from here on out.

We then lay 4 small tack welds on the piece.  After those tacks, we indicate on the axle stub to make sure it hasn't gone crooked.  If it has, another small tack is placed 180* away from where it is high.  This pulls the stub back close to straight.  This indicating and tacking process usually takes a couple passes to get everything reasonably straight.  

Now, the helper slowly spins the lathe chuck while the welder lays a single bead all the way around the part.  No matter how much time you spend making the axle straight in the tacking stage, it will pull out of round after this weld pass.  The helper should check the stub with the indicator before the weld cools much.  If the axle has pulled any, a dead blow hammer can be used to tap the axle back straight before it has cooled completely.

Admittedly, this may take more time than the previously mentioned angle iron method, but we have gotten VERY straight axles from doing it this way.  Also, we have never broken an axle made in this way even though we don't cut on an angle, use rosette welds, or do any type of heat treating.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dillon_b12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-10 at 10:33pm
Originally posted by blue2kss

I welded ours up in the lathe.  Nice and straight

(And for those who will claim that is a bad idea, they did it for years before I got there and I personally know several fabricators who do the same thing)

I was writing my long ass reply when you posted this.  I agree it is the best way to go about it.  I also agree that some will probably scream that we have ruined our lathes.  I would like to add that is definitely not a good idea to use a 3-jaw chuck to do this.


Edited by dillon_b12 - 2010-Aug-10 at 10:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ErikHardy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-10 at 10:59pm

Dillion,

What thickness are the extension pipes if you don't mind?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote blue2kss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-10 at 11:01pm
Dillon,

I did the same exact thing that you guys do. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote blue2kss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-10 at 11:03pm
Originally posted by ErikHardy

Dillion,

What thickness are the extension pipes if you don't mind?



If memory serves me correctly, we used .120" wall after boring, 4130 welded with 70S-2 on our Dynasty 300 TIG.  I preheated the assembly before welding (dont recall the exact preheat temp) and let it air cool with no treatment afterwards


Edited by blue2kss - 2010-Aug-10 at 11:04pm
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dillon_b12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-10 at 11:15pm
Erik, 

First, there is only 1 "I" in my name. Wink

We use 1"x.188" wall tubing.  1"x.188" wall tubing has an I.D. of .624"  

Our axle stubs are usually around .720" so that leaves you with a final wall thickness around .140".

The tubing is 4130 welded with ER70S-2 rod.  We don't do any preheating, but I suspect that the light tacking process provides some pre-heating.  Also, once you do a full pass on one end, the whole axle is ridiculously hot.  I usually let it cool just until I can handle it with TIG gloves before I start setting up the other side.  There is still plenty of heat in the part when I start on the second end.

We also just let the axles air cool on their own.


Edited by dillon_b12 - 2010-Aug-10 at 11:16pm
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ErikHardy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-10 at 11:33pm

lol apologies dillon - lions must be on my mind

Hopefully with this added knowledge we will change the direction of our drivetrain, appreciate all of the help Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Rob71zilla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-11 at 6:53am
We did pretty much the same thing that Dillon posted except we didn't weld them on a lathe.  Although that would have been a better way to do it, I just put them in a vice and welded 2 seperate beads, each being half way around.  I made the fit between the two components a tight press fit too and heated up the bored out end until it was red then slid the shalf into it. 
 
This helps keep the shafts straight but it can be easy to not get the proper length.  If the shaft doesn't go into the bore all the way then it will never come out again. This happened to me but I was able to make it up on the other end...luckily it happened on the first end so I had a chance to make up the difference.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dillon_b12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-11 at 10:05am
Have any of you that use the angle iron method checked to see how much run-out you are getting?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dillon_b12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-17 at 11:06pm
Quick video from a previous axle making session.

I can't remember the exact amount of run-out these had but it wasn't much.


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Post Options Post Options   Quote ErikHardy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2010-Aug-18 at 1:08am
that is beautiful!!!!
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